Stepping back in time: a historic walk along Dorset’s Jurassic Coast

A water taxi ride transformed a linear 10‑mile hike between Lyme Regis and West Bay on Dorset’s Jurassic Coast into a circular adventure, with the author, his wife Helen, and their friend Tom Cox boarding a rigid inflatable boat at West Bay and being ferried across Lyme Bay to the historic Cobb in Lyme Regis. Their skipper, Nick, narrated the maritime history of the shoreline, pointing out wrecks from fishing, smuggling and both World Wars, while the boat offered panoramic views of Chesil Beach, low‑lying Portland, and the distant Devon coast at Start Point. After disembarking, the trio began their return trek inland, following the South West Coast Path that weaves through the villages of Charmouth and the former coastal road Long Entry, before rejoining the coast and completing the loop back at West Bay.

The walk is steeped in literary and historical layers: the Cobb gained fame through Jane Austen’s *Persuasion* and John Fowles’s *The French Lieutenant’s Woman*, whose film opening still echoes the town’s 19th‑century façade. The route also traces the Monarch’s Way, the path Charles II used to flee after the English Civil War, and recalls a 1725 episode when a teenage Henry Fielding attempted to abduct his cousin Sarah along Long Entry before being thwarted. The landscape’s fragility is evident, with frequent cliff falls—such as the one marked by a 2020 sign—and continual path diversions to ensure safety. West Bay itself, once Bridport Harbour and a rope‑exporting hub, was renamed by the railway to attract tourists; today its former station houses a restaurant in repurposed carriages, and the town’s chip stalls and sea views provide a nostalgic finish to the journey.

The experience was enriched by Tom’s contributions; his latest novel, *Everything Will Swallow You*, draws on the Dorset coast’s history, and his wife Ellie’s homemade pasties sustained the walkers. Practical details for future hikers include the OS Explorer 116 map covering the entire route, the seasonal operation of the Lyme Bay Water Taxi, and a year‑round bus service linking the two towns. Author Jon Woolcott, known for *Real Dorset* and *The Tattooed Hills*, provides further context on the region’s chalk figures, underscoring how the walk blends natural beauty, cultural heritage, and the ever‑changing coastline into a timeless trek.

⚡ Effects Interpreter